A Comprehensive Pilgrimage Guide to Pashupatinath in Kathmandu
Located on the banks of the Bagmati river, Pashupatinath is one of the most important pilgrimage destinations for Hindus. The complex is absolutely fascinating. Whether you are religious or not, you cannot stay indifferent to Pashupatinath. It is one of the best places in Kathmandu to experience authentic local culture.
Pashupatinath in Kathmandu is definitely a must-see for every traveler who plans to visit Nepal. Yes! It is true that you cannot enter the main temple if you aren’t Hindu but there are so many other interesting things to see and do at Pashupatinath. Steeped in history and legend, the unique complex is really worth discovering.
Pashupatinath Temple is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important religious places in Asia for devotees of Lord Shiva. In fact, Pashupatinath isn’t just a temple but a complex of temples (492 temples to be exact!), ghats, shiva lingams and shrines.
Tourists to Pashupatinath mainly come to witness cremations. It is one thing to see Pashupatinath and cremations, it is totally another thing to know what you’re actually seeing!
Here’s a comprehensive travel guide to Pashupatinath, Nepal’s most important sacred pilgrimage site for Hindus.
A Brief History of Pashupatinath
The name of the temple comes from ‘Pashupati’, the incarnation of Shiva as the Lord of Animals. According to Sadhguru, “Pashu” means life and “Pati” means the Lord, and Pashupatinath is the ‘Lord of All Life’, the ‘Lord of all beings’. With Brahma and Vishnu, Shiva is one of the 3 most important Gods of the Hindus; he’s the God of destruction and recreation.
The date of Pashupatinath’s construction is unknown, but it is considered the oldest Hindu temple in Kathmandu. The earliest evidence of the main temple’s existence dates back to 400 A.D; however, the Shiva linga located inside the temple is much older. The main temple was rebuilt in the 17th century after being destroyed by termites.
There are many legends surrounding the construction of Pashupatinath. One of the most famous is the “Cow Legend”. It says that Shiva and his wife, Parvati, came to what we know now as the Kathmandu Valley and rested on the banks of the Bagmati river. Astonished by the beauty of the site, they decided to change themselves into antelopes and explore the surroundings. When the other Gods caught Shiva, they asked him to return to his duties; but Shiva refused to leave and decided to fight to earn the right to stay. During the fight, Shiva lost one of his horns. According to the legend, a cow came on the site where now stands Pashupatinath temple every day and irrigated the place with her milk. Curious, the herdsman dug where the cow was offering her milk and found the lost horn of Lord Shiva. It is said that the horn, now located inside the temple, became the first Shiva lingam worshipped by Hindus.
Did you know?
1• Pashupatinath Temple is a UNESCO world heritage site since 1979.
2• The main temple of Pashupatinath was left untouched by the massive 7.8 magnitude earthquake of 2015 while other parts of the complex were badly damaged.
3• During the Maha Shivaratri festival, around 1 million devotees from all over the world visit Pashupatinath every year.
4• Only Hindus are allowed to enter the main temple of Pashupatinath.
5• Only 4 priests (Bhatta priests) can touch the sacro sanctum Shiva lingam (main idol of Pashupatinath temple).
6• As a foreigner, you cannot enter inside the main temple but you can see the temple from the main view point across the Bagmati river, and you can also see the impressive Nandi, Shiva’s bull, from the main entrance.
7• You will most probably encounter many Hindu Holy Men (also known as Sadhus). Do not hesitate to talk with them.
8• You will likely witness open air cremations. Please, be respectful and avoid taking photos/ videos without the family’s consent. Hindus come from all over Nepal to spend their final days at Pashupatinath and have their ashes scattered in the sacred Bagmati river.
9• A lot of cows and monkeys roam the area. Beware of monkeys, they are great pickpockets.
10• Combine your visit with Boudhanath stupa, another UNESCO World Heritage site. It is located near Pashupatinath (approx. 20–30 min walk).
Main Festivals
The two main festivals celebrated at Pashupatinath are Maha Shivaratri and Teej.
Maha Shivaratri (also known as “The night of Lord Shiva”) is a Hindu festival dedicated to the worship of Lord Shiva. It is one of the most important festivals for Hindus and the largest festival observed at Pashupatinath, in Kathmandu. Every year, the festival brings around 1 million devotees to Pashupatinath temple.
Teej (also known as the “Festival of Women”) is a 3-day Hindu festival dedicated to the union of Lord Shiva and his wife, Parvati. During the festival, thousands of women draped in red sarees gather at Pashupatinath temple.
Architecture
- Temples
There are 492 temples inside the complex of Pashupatinath. You can observe different styles of temples, including temples with a Pagoda style (from the Malla architecture), a dome style (from the Mughal architecture), and a shikhara style (introduced by the Guptas and the Lichhavis).
Here are the main temples of Pashupatinath:
- The Pashupatinath Mandir
The Pashupatinath Mandir (the very impressive Pagoda-style temple, also known as the ‘Golden Roofed temple’) is the main temple of the Pashupatinath complex. You cannot enter inside the temple (only Hindus are allowed inside the main temple) but you can observe the Pashupatinath Mandir from the main view point on the other side of the Bagmati river. You can also have a glimpse of the impressive statue of Nandi (Shiva’s bull) from the main gate of Pashupatinath Mandir.
- The Bachhareshwari temple
The Bachhareshwari temple is a 6th century temple decorated with erotic carvings. The temple is dedicated to Parvati, the wife of Lord Shiva.
- The Guhyeshwari temple
The Guhyeshwari temple is one of the most important temples for Tantric worshipers. It is located about 1km east of Pashupatinath temple. The temple is dedicated to Goddess Sati. The legend says that after her husband, Lord Shiva, was insulted by her father, Sati Devi was so angry that she burned herself to death. In deep sorrow, Shiva wandered the world carrying her corpse and started his dance of destruction. During the process, 51 parts of her body fell in various places (body parts known as “Shakti Peeths”) and the butt of Goddess Sati is said to have fallen where Guhyeshwari now stands.
- The Gorakhnath temple
The Gorakhnath temple is an important 11th century red and white temple dedicated to the founder of the Shaivite monastic tradition.
- The Raj Rajeshwari temple
The Raj Rajeshwari temple is dedicated to the Queen consort, ‘Raj Rajeshwari’ Devi, who was married to King ‘Rana Bahadur Shah’ and who was forced to commit sati when her husband was murdered (sati was an old (and ‘inhuman’) practice (now banned!) in which a widow had to self-immolate during the funeral ceremony of her deceased husband).
2. Shiva lingams
Lingams are considered the symbolic representation of Lord Shiva. They can be found all over the complex. You will find many shiva lingams inside small stone temples on the eastern side of the Bagmati river.
3. Ghats & Hindu cremations
Pashupatinath is known for its open-air cremations. It is said that those cremated at Pashupatinath are forgiven for all their bad deeds and it is believed that the people who die at Pashupatinath will be reborn as humans. The open-air cremations take place on the “ghats”.
The Western Ghats is where the cremations take place, in front of the Pashupatinath temple, along the sacred Bagmati river. The Arya Ghat is where the nobility and royalty get to be cremated, in front of the Pashupatinath temple, while the others funerals have to happen at the southern part of the temple.
The Eastern Ghats is where the rituals are performed and holy baths take place.
4. The Viewpoint
Cross the river and climb up to the hilltop on the eastern bank of the Bagmati river and you will have a panoramic view of the Ghats and the main Pashupatinath temple. You will find many foreign visitors sitting and watching the open-air cremations from there, while others are feeding the monkeys.
5. Statues
There are many statues in Pashupatinath, and many legends are surrounding each of them. One of the most fascinating statues is the statue of Kalki (or Birupakshya), half buried into the ground. Kalki is the human form of Lord Shiva. The legend says that the statue is growing by herself and when the statue will emerge fully out of the ground, the universe will be destroyed and a new era (“Satyayug”) will begin.
6. Yogi caves
Venture a little further north of the Ghats and you will discover yogi’s caves dating back to the medieval times.
The Holy Bagmati river
The first thing you’ll notice (and probably what you won’t expect) is how the Bagmati river is (sadly) highly dirty. Knowing that the Bagmati river is a very sacred river, it is very surprising to see it so polluted by solid waste and untreated sewage.
Hindus come from all over Nepal to spend their final days at Pashupatinath and have their ashes scattered in the sacred Bagmati river. You will most probably witness open-air cremations there, as it is happening every day. You might also see devotees taking ritual baths in the holy Bagmati river. River highly polluted. Is it sacred still once humans altered the place and turned it to its worst version?
Many (amazing) cleaning campaigns are nowadays running. Volunteering clean-up programs take usually place once a week. But without core awareness programs, it might not be enough.
The Sadhus
You will most probably encounter many Hindu Holy Men (also known as Sadhus or Babas). Sadhus are religious ascetic yogis who have renounced the worldly life and who are trying to find liberation from the cycle of death and rebirth by intense meditation. Do not hesitate to interact with the Sadhus. Most of them are very friendly and happy to strike a pose for you. You can take photos of them / with them in exchange for a small donation.
The Religious Market
The religious market of Pashupatinath is a great place for buying religious souvenirs (such as pictures, figurines of deities, rudraksha necklaces, incense, …). You can also buy fruits, flowers and tika powder if you wish to make offerings.
How to visit Pashupatinath?
Pashupatinath is one of the most important pilgrimage destinations for Hindus and a very popular attraction in Kathmandu; it is no surprise that the site is often crowded with both locals and tourists. To avoid the tourist crowds, favor early mornings.
Pashupatinath is a place of worship; therefore, try to dress modestly and cover your shoulders and legs.
If you plan to visit Pashupatinath, it is well worth it to combine your visit with Boudhanath. You should count at least 4 hours to hit the highlights of Pashupatinath and Boudhanath. But if you want to make the most out of your visit, plan on spending the whole day.
Although it isn’t necessary to get a guide to visit some sites of Kathmandu, Pashupatinath is among the places where it is worth hiring a guide.
Full article here.
