A Travel Guide to Boudhanath in Kathmandu

There’s something magical about Boudhanath. Truly.

I’ve been countless times to Boudhanath; and if there is one place that gets me excited in Kathmandu, it’s surely this one. Bold, vibrant and colorful, the bustling Boudhanath is, in fact, one of my favorite places on Earth.

Everything in Boudha dazzles me. Sure, the chaotic streets and the daunting traffic with hundreds of cars, taxis, buses, motorcycles (a lot of motorcycles!), cows, dogs and pedestrians, can be quite impressive; yet, it is probably the only location I know where you can easily find peace amidst chaos. Is that even possible? Boudhanath is a treasure and I can’t recommend it enough. The giant stupa is one of the most beautiful spots in the capital city. And still today, it’s my favorite area to wander in Kathmandu.

Boudhanath stupa is one of the largest stupas in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is a very popular attraction among foreigners and locals alike; every day, hundreds of tourists and pilgrims walk in a clockwise direction around the stupa, under the protective eyes of Buddha.

Whether you are spending days in Kathmandu or just make it a quick stop, Boudhanath should definitely be on the top of your bucket list. Boudhanath is the quintessential experience one should have when visiting Kathmandu.

A Brief History

There are a lot of legends and stories surrounding the construction of the Boudhanath stupa.

One of the most famous legends says that in the 4th century, King Dharmadeva installed stone water taps (known as ‘Dhunge Dhara’ in Nepali) in the palace courtyards but no water came out from the taps. The king decided to consult his astrologers and was told that in order to receive water, it will require the performance of a human sacrifice, more specifically ‘the sacrifice of the most virtuous man in the kingdom’. The king realized that only him and his son were eligible. The king decided to sacrifice himself but not wanting his son to know that he will perform the sacrifice on himself, he instructed him to decapitate a shrouded form lying near the palace the same night. His son, the prince Manadeva, followed his father’s instructions; he decapitated the covered corpse and horrified, saw the head of his father flew to the Vajrayogini temple. Once his son realized he killed his father, he was regretful. The deity Vajrayogini told Dharmadeva’ son, the new king Manadeva, that the only way to undo his sin was to let a cock fly from the temple and then, wherever the cock land will be the place where Manadeva should build a stupa for his father’s remains. The cock eventually landed where Boudhanath stupa stands today.

There is another legend. According to the Buddhist mythology, it is said that the Buddha of compassion, Chenrezig, was visiting all the realms of existence, from the realms of the Gods to the Hells, and he saw all beings suffering everywhere. His mission was to help all sentient beings reach enlightenment. But even though a great number of them attained enlightenment, it seems that the number of them in pain wasn’t going lower. Feeling compassionate for the pain of all sentient beings, Chenrezig wept, and made the vow to liberate all beings from the misery of this world. From his tears were born two deities. One of them decided to reborn in the human world and to build a huge stupa to pacify the Earth. Her name was Jadzima. Jadzima married 4 men and each of them died; her first husband was a swine herder, the second a horse keeper, the third a dog keeper and the last one a poultry-man. She gave birth to 4 sons from these 4 husbands. Jadzima was able to accumulate a lot of savings throughout the years, and she eventually decided to build the Great stupa of peace. She went to see the King of Nepal to ask him a land where she could build the stupa. The King gave her a land and she started the construction of the Great stupa with her 4 sons. Jadzima died before the Stupa was achieved, but the Stupa was eventually completed by her sons. It is said that Boudhanath stupa entombs the remains of Kasyapa Buddha, the 27th of the 29 named Buddhas and the 6th of the 7 Buddhas of Antiquity.

Unfortunately, the historical stupa constructed during the Licchavi dynasty (in the 5thcentury CE) was destroyed by Mughal invaders and the current stupa as we know it today was built after the Mughal invasion, in the 14th century.

What to see and what to do in Boudhanath?

• Follow the pilgrims, walk in a clockwise direction around the stupa, and turn the prayer wheels.

Nepal is a safe haven and a sacred land for Buddhists. Boudhanath is one of the most important Buddhist pilgrimage sites. If there is one place where you can witness the daily rituals of Buddhist monks in Nepal, it is surely this one.

• Take plenty of amazing photos under the colorful prayer flags.

Boudhanath is also a fantastic place for taking photos ~ especially at night when Boudhanath is lit up with thousands of butter lamps.

• Buy souvenirs and handicrafts.

There are many shops around the stupa where you can buy souvenirs, from singing bowls to prayer wheels and prayer flags. However, with that being said, you will have way more choices if you explore the backstreets of Boudhanath (see details below).

• Enjoy a meal at one of the various rooftop restaurants in Boudhanath.

There are plenty of rooftop restaurants where you can admire the spectacular views of the stupa. For one of the best views on the stupa, try Nani’s Kitchen.

• Discover Boudhanath like a local.

Tourists tend to gather around the stupa. Venture further and explore the backstreets with the locals. You won’t be disappointed. Phulbari street is particularly known for its authentic shops and restaurants, and fair prices.

• Learn Thangka painting.

Boudha is quite famous for its Thangka paintings, and you can find some Thangka Art Schools around the Stupa. In fact, many Thangka shops provide training for Thangka art (such as ‘Sara Enterprises ~ Buddhist Thangka Center’).

• Visit the monasteries surrounding the stupa and get a blessing from Buddhist monks.

The closest monastery, Tamang Gompa (also known as ‘Guru Lhakhang Monastery’) stands in front of the Boudhanath Stupa (inside Boudhanath circle). This Monastery is open to the public. Don’t hesitate to take the stairs to the second floor and up to the rooftop, the views from there are amazing. There are also other monasteries worth visiting nearby Boudhanath. Among them, there are the magnificent Shenchen Monastery, the Jamchen Lhakhang (known for its impressive statue of Maitreya Buddha), the White Monastery Ka-Nying Shedrup Ling, and the Sakya Tharig Gompa.

• Eat the local food from Boudha.

Try “Laphing”, a traditional Tibetan noodle dish (we highly recommend ‘CD Laphing center’), or “Thukpa”, a Tibetan noddle soup. If you want to try the unique ‘Thulo momo’ (big momos) in Boudha, head to ‘Sky Café’.

• Drink a “Tongba”.

Tongba is an alcoholic beverage made from fermented millet. You can either drink it hot or cold. It is sweet but be careful, it is a refilled drink and it is way stronger than it seems.

• Avoid the crowds and walk to the hidden “Ghyoilisang Peace Park”.

Ghyoilisang Peace Park (also known as Buddha Peace Park) and its pond are located only 2min walk from the stupa; and yet, it isn’t frequented by tourists at all. The soil of this land was used during the construction of Boudhanath stupa and was considered holy after it turned into a pond.

• Escape the hustle and bustle, and visit the Taragaon park.

Taragaon park and its small museum are located 10–15min walk from the stupa. It is a great place to visit while in Boudhanath; and best of all, it’s free (see details below).

• Practice yoga at Padma Healing Arts.

There is one place in Boudha particularly famous for its (short) yoga retreats and classes. The owner, Pema, is well-known among the community, as one of the best yoga teachers in the Valley.

• Reconnect with your true self and experience Buddhism meditation.

Boudhanath is probably the best place in Kathmandu to learn Buddhist meditation. There are many centers dedicated to meditation around Boudhanath.

Did you know?

1• Boudhanath is a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979.

2• Boudhanath is a very important sacred pilgrimage site for Buddhists from all over the world.

3• It is said that the stupa entombs the remains of the third Buddha of the Bhadrakalpa, “Kasyapa Buddha”, and a finger bone from the fourth and present Buddha “Siddharta Gautama Buddha”.

4• You always have to walk in a clockwise direction around the stupa, with the stupa being on your right side.

5• It is always interesting to understand the meaning of a structure of this kind before visiting it. Here are some basic information regarding the structure of Boudhanath:

• The pinnacle (at the top of the stupa) is the symbol of Mt. Sumeru, the King of Mountains.
• The umbrella (under the pinnacle) is the protector of the 3 jewels: Buddha, Dharma and Sangha.
• The lotus (under the umbrella) is the symbol of compassion and purity.
• The thirteen steps (under the lotus and above the big eyes) are the 13 steps to complete enlightenment.
• The two eyes looking from the 4 sides are the eyes of the Buddha, who sees everywhere.
• The nose is the symbol of nirvana.
• The Harnika is the 8 noble paths.
• The dome is the symbol of universe.
• The Mandala is the mansion of Buddha.

6• Boudhanath hosts many festivals throughout the year, including Losar, Buddha Jayanti, and the birthday of the Dalai Lama.

7• Mornings and evenings are the best times for visiting Boudhanath as you can follow the pilgrims around the stupa. In the evening, during the sunset, the atmosphere is particularly mystical.

8• Combine your visit with Pashupatinath temple, another UNESCO World Heritage site. It is located near Boudhanath (approx. 20–30 min walk).

Focus on: Taragaon museum & its park

Maybe because of the heavy traffic and the chaotic roads that are (always) under construction, most visitors stick to Boudhanath stupa and do not explore the rest of the area — They are definitely missing out.

Ten to fifteen minutes’ walk from Boudha, there is the charming Taragaon museum, located on the premises of Hyatt Regency. The museum is housed inside a former hotel and now displays a permanent collection and contemporary art exhibitions. The unique architecture of Taragaon is remarkable and this alone is well worth the visit! The place is also surprisingly serene considering the location. I love the peaceful park around the museum. It feels very nice to be surrounded by trees after wandering around Boudhanath. It’s truly a nice place to visit, more particularly with kids. A hidden gem!

Full article here.